A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises Automotive Services

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Build You a Competitive 2WD "Small Tire", 4WD "Small Tire", or a 2WD Pro-Street Mini Pulling Truck -

These type of small pulling trucks would not cost nearly as much to build and maintain as a traditional full-size (and high dollar) pulling truck. And it would probably cost about the same or maybe less to build a 2WD or 4WD small wheel pulling truck than it would cost to build a competitive garden pulling tractor. In addition, unlike the full-size pulling trucks, which require a large, heavy towing vehicle and a heavy duty goose-neck trailer to haul the truck to and from the pull sites, these small and light-weight mini pulling trucks require just a newer/late model 1/2 ton pickup truck (which have better braking than earlier/older trucks) and a 16 ft. tandem axle utility trailer is all that's needed. It'll be low-cost and very economically to build, maintain, and transport a truck of this type to and from the pull sites.

If you decide to build one of these trucks for pulling yourself, it'll be best to use a mini pickup truck or an early model/vintage (pre-1955±) 1/2 ton pickup truck that weighs no more than 2,900 lbs. The most practical (short bed) mini trucks to use are: 1947-'55 Chevy/GMC 1/2 ton (with a 4 cylinder or V6 engine), Chevy LUV, Chevy S-10/Colorado, GMC S-15/Sonoma/Canyon, Ford Ranger, Toyota, Nissan Hardbody, Mitsubishi Mighty Max, Mazda B-Series, Jeep Comanche, Isuzu, Dodge Ram 50, etc.

For the two wheel drive (2WD) class, it's best to use a short wheelbase (approximately 108" from center of the front spindle to the center of the rear axle) truck because less forward weight will be transferred toward the rear tires, allowing the tires to dig in better for improved traction. And for the four wheel drive (4WD) class, it's best to use a long wheelbase (approximately 118" from center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle) truck because the extended forward weight will place more weight on the front tires, allowing them to have more traction for improved traction.

To build a mini class pulling truck like these, the basic necessities are:

Exhaust Manifold or Header Pipe Mounting Gaskets VS Using Just Silicone Sealant Alone - Which Works Best?

Personally, whenever we install exhaust manifolds or header pipes on an engine, we don't use gaskets. Instead, we use RTV clear silicone sealant because silicone will not burn due to normal or extreme exhaust heat. (Silicone can withstand up to 5,000º F.) Anyway, gaskets always compress or "squeeze down" where the fastening bolts are, causing the cast iron manifold to flex a few thousandths of an inch or thinner steel header flanges to bend more than a few thousandths of an inch where the mounting bolts are. When metal is compressed, the uncompressed area that's between the bolts will allow the gasket(s) to leak and eventually burn out. Also, before we install the manifolds or headers on an engine, we use a long, wide flat file to make sure the mounting flanges on the manifolds or headers are perfectly flat. Using silicone and the elimination of gaskets will allow the manifolds or header flanges to be mounted flat against the cylinder heads, creating absolute metal-to-metal contact, which also keep the mounting bolts securely tight. The bolts will not loosen under any circumstances. Plus, the silicone fills in the imperfections between the two metals, eliminating any leaks. By the way - it's best to use Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts. Also, engine heat has very little effect on silicone rubber. It can withstand up to 2,500 degrees heat.

Using 26-12.00x12 Pulling Tires/Wheels with Automotive Axles -

All 12" diameter wheels, rather for a garden tractor or small utility trailer, come in the 4.5" x 5" bolt pattern (4-1/2" spacing with 5 bolt holes). An early model 8" or 9" Ford car axle flange will work with 12" garden tractor wheels because they have the same bolt pattern. The bolt pattern that come in virtually every 12" diameter wheel center that have 5 mounting holes is 4-1/2". This size bolt pattern will work on Ford Ranger mini trucks. But to use 12" wheels on a Chevy S10 or GMC Jimmy mini truck, the centers can be adapted to a different bolt pattern (4-3/4") by drilling five new holes between the existing 4-1/2" holes using a super spacer or indexing fixture on the table of a large milling machine. 12" diameter wheel blanks are available at millertire.com. But to use a Ford truck or GM car or truck axle with 12" garden tractor wheels, the centers will need to be cut out of each wheel, and then true-up and weld-in the automotive centers in the 12" wheels. Make sure the offset back-spacing is set correctly, too. Go here: Wheel Bolt Pattern Cross Reference Database and Conversion Guide. To locate a set of wheels with the bolt pattern that's needed, try a local automotive salvage yard, search eBay or Craigslist.

And we can't really give you a dollar amount to build a competitive two wheel drive or 4WD mini class pulling truck because building a mini-rod depends greatly on where you can find or purchase the parts, the quality of the parts, and their availability. If one owns their own auto salvage yard and/or an automotive machine/speed shop/business, and is a professional machinist and welder, then it shouldn't cost much at all to build their own mini class pulling truck. But if you don't possess these things, then it will cost a lot more. And as for the parts required to build a mini-rod, first, you will need a small truck cab and bed, a sturdy frame or chassis with the steering mechanisms and brakes, a 4-cylinder or V6 engine (because of their lightweight) in good condition, a lightweight automatic or manual transmission with a shielded flywheel, rear and front tires/wheels, centers out of the truck wheels to weld in the garden tractor wheels, various other parts, and lots of engineering to complete the truck and make it truly competitive on the track. Go here for videos: Check out our YouTube channel to see these pulling trucks in action. 2WD Pro Street Mini Pulling Trucks on YouTube.

When converting a 1948-54 Chevy or GMC 1/2 ton truck into a mini pulling truck, to convert the front end for use of 4-3/4" x 5 hole wheels, the front wheel bearing hubs and brake drums off a 1949-54 Chevy car will fit the 1948-54 Chevy and GMC trucks. The backing plates on these trucks will need to be spaced outward 1/8" so the brake shoes will make full contact with the drums.

By drilling a 3/32" hole through the thermostat plate, this will allow any air out of the block, especially when filling the radiator with coolant, and this hole will also let the engine to warm up faster by allowing the coolant make contact with the coil spring in the thermostat.

How to make the 1963-72 Chevy and GMC truck motor mounts super strong and easier to bolt back in when reinstalling the engine:

Drill a 7/16" hole through the rubber motor mounts, install a grade 8 bolt so the threads are exposed toward the lower part of the mount. And before installing the engine in the truck, drill the frame motor mount holes to 5/8". The exposed threads or "studs" on the motor mounts will allow for easy alignment to install. Then use wide flat washers, lock nuts and grade 8 nuts on the threads of each mount.

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